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How to buy a Pearl
A number of factors affect the appraisal of pearl quality. We recommend that customers learn the basics of selecting fine pearls to make pearl buying an enjoyable experience and to ensure a sound investment.
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Pearl Quality
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Pearl Types
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Pearl size is mostly determined by two factors: the size of the implanted nucleus and the thickness of the nacre that grows layer upon layer around the nucleus. A large cultured pearl that lacks nacre thickness has a low value, and tends to discolor and crack fairly easily. A pearl with a thick nacre coating will retain its luster and beauty for a lifetime when properly cared for. For pearls of similar quality, the most important other determinant of price is the size of the pearl. The size is generally measured in millimeters.
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Perfectly round cultured pearls are the most rare. Although most cultured pearls are nearly round, only about 1% are perfectly spherical. To check a strand for roundness, roll it across a flat surface. The strand should move evenly and smoothly.
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Luster refers to the surface property that imbues cultured pearls with their shine and beauty. When checking pearls for luster, view them while standing with your back to a source of light. The sharper your reflection on the surface of the pearl, the higher is the luster and the better the quality.
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Pearls come in a variety of shades, with the major classifications being white, pink, silver, cream, gold, and black. Choice pearls also have a secondary color, or quot;overtonequot;, around the surface of the pearl. These overtones are usually rose, green or blue. The color should emanate from deep within the center of the pearl. All the pearls in a strand should be consistent in color.
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Pearl size is mostly determined by two factors: the size of the implanted nucleus and the thickness of the nacre that grows layer upon layer around the nucleus. A large cultured pearl that lacks nacre thickness has a low value, and tends to discolor and crack fairly easily. A pearl with a thick nacre coating will retain its luster and beauty for a lifetime when properly cared for. For pearls of similar quality, the most important other determinant of price is the size of the pearl. The size is generally measured in millimeters.
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Akoya pearls are cultivated using Pinctada Fukata oysters. Although most Akoya pearls are cultivated in Japan, they are also cultured in the tropical waters off the coast of Korea and China and southward as far as Sri Lanka. Akoya pearls are from two to ten millimeters in size, and their shape is typically round or off-round. Colors range from pink to white and yellow. Typically pearls are harvested after about eighteen months to three years of cultivation, reaching about 0.5 mm in diameter after eighteen months in the host oyster. Akoya pearls are renowned for their high luster and rich color.
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Tahitian black pearls are cultivated from Pinctada Margaritifera oysters (black lip oysters) found in French Polynesian waters. Black South Sea pearls come in a wide range of colors from silver / gray, blue, and red / eggplant to dark green, with peacock being the most valuable. Cultivation time averages about two years. Tahitian pearls have long been highly prized by many cultures for their exotic colors and brilliant luster.
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South Sea pearls are produced in the waters between the north coast of Australia and the southern coast of China. These waters are very clean and offer an abundant food supply which can speed pearl production. This is where the Pinctada maxima oyster resides. The Pinctada can grow up to 12 inches in diameter and is able to form much larger pearls than other types of saltwater oysters. The average size of a South Sea pearl is 13mm, but they can range anywhere from 9 to 20mm. There are two different types of the Pinctada oyster; the silver-lipped and the gold-lipped. They are distinguished by the outer edge of their interiors and are responsible for the color of the pearl they produce. South Sea pearls are available in a variety of subtle colors such as white, silver and gold. South Sea pearls take at least 2 years to form and offer a unique, satin luster making them much more valuable and rare than other pearl types.
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Freshwater pearls are produced by mollusks residing in freshwater lakes and rivers. Both China and the United States have been the major sources of these pearls for centuries. Freshwater pearls can appear less lustrous than saltwater varieties; however, they are durable and resistant to wear, available in a wide variety of shapes and colors and are far less expensive. For these reasons, freshwater pearls are a popular choice for jewelry.
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